Sashco Log Jam Chinking

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The standard for synthetic chinking. Largest stocking dealer of Log Jam

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Old-time mortar cracks and crumbles, allowing in wind, bugs, dust, rain and pollen. That’s why Sashco created Log Jam Chinking, the standard in synthetic chinking. Its texture recreates that old-time mortar look while sealing your log home from vermin and wind alike. It stretches and won’t let go when your logs move. With Log Jam chinking, you can keep the cozy feel and rustic look without compromise.

Authorized Sashco dealer located in Livonia, outside of Metro Detroit Michigan. We ship to all 48 states. Free shipping on cases and 5 gallon pails of Sashco Log Jam home chinking. Look no further for the lowest price in Log Jam chinking for contractors and log home owners.

Log Jam Chinking is a flexible sealant that is used to seal the joints of log homes. No matter what type of log property you own, it is important to use chinking, a synthetic mortar, to keep the log joints sealed. We sell single tubes or broken cases of Log Jam

When other chinking pulls away, Log Jam holds its seal.

Synthetic mortar chinking for your log home or cabin. Log Jam synthetic mortar log home chinking that prevents cracks & protects log homes from wind, bugs, dust, rain & pollen. All of Sashco’s products are formulated to be compatible with one another. In fact, when their chinking and caulking are used with our stains, we give the chinking and caulking a limited lifetime warranty.perma chink

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Chinking coverage estimator Michigan Dealer, Perma Chinking

General coverage estimator

Product Coverage Rates per 5 Gallon Pail of Sashco Log Jam Chinking:
1/2″‘ Wide Chinking Joint x 1/4″ Depth = 770 Lineal Feet
1” Wide Chinking Joint x 1/2″ Depth = 195 Lineal Feet
1 1/2″ Wide Chinking Joint x 1/2″ Depth = 125 Lineal Feet
2″ Wide Chinking Joint x 1/2″ Depth = 95 Lineal Feet
3″ Wide Chinking Joint x 1/2″ Depth = 65 Lineal Feet
4″ Wide Chinking Joint x 1/2″ Depth = 45 Lineal Feet

Insulate and protect your log home in style with Log Jam Chinking! This chinking acts as a form of insulation and as a barrier to the elements outside, allowing you to be comfortable inside your log home. Log Jam is the elastic chinking that simply responds better to log movement than other chinking and maintains the traditional look of mortar without stretching out.

  • Tightly grips to all species of wood including oily woods like cedar
  • Will not pull away from log surfaces
  • Will remain elastic and not tear up under normal log movement conditions, up to 100% in joint movement
  • Compatible with most sealers and preservatives
  • Protects from Log Rot
  • Contractors pricing lower than Amazon
  • Not intended to be used as stucco

Sashco Log Jam® Chinking benefits include:

    • Stretches up to 250% of original joint size without tearing – moves with your logs when they move
    • Textured to simulate old-time mortar
    • Easy to smooth and cleans up with water
    • Superior early water resistance
    • Won’t melt Styrofoam® bead board – no more bumpy, unsightly chink lines
    • Tested by you – used on thousands of homes worldwide since 1985
    • Freeze-thaw stable – OK to leave in your truck or garage overnight

Before you start chinking, there are some preparations that should be made. The most common question is should I stain or chink first? While, this is not a requirement there is one method that is easier. You should almost always plan to stain your cabin before you chink. There are many reasons for this. Stain does not stick to chinking and will create drip marks. It can also create discolor effects depending on your chinking. Staining first adds an extra layer of protection to your logs from bugs and rot. It is important to let the stain dry for 2 to 7 days before chinking in order to ensure that the stain is completely dry. If you try to chink before the stain is completely dry then your chinking might not adhere. It is also a good idea to check with the manufacturer or dealer to ensure the stain and chinking are compatible. When preparing your log cabin for chinking you will want to make sure that the space between the logs is clear of grass, bugs, and other debris that might cause your chinking to peel later on. You will want to use a mild cleaner and NOT a strong power washer. Attention to detail will make your chinking last longer. Logs should be anywhere between 40 F – 80 F. If the logs are to hot it will evaporate the water and if they are to cold then the chinking will not seal.

The next step is to prepare your tools for chinking. When chinking, water is your best friend. You will want to use water and a spatula or foam brush to go over your work. As you apply your chinking you will want to go over it in order to clean up your mistakes and smooth your chinking out to ensure that it is adhering to the logs. A tip is to have two buckets of water. One bucket will have your foam brushes and water. The second bucket will be full of clean water and is where you will place your dirty brushes. In order to get the most out of your brushes, you will want to use each side of the brush. Many people buy up to 50 brushes at a time. More brushes allow you to keep going and rinse less often. Some people choose to use spatulas instead.


How to apply backer rod.

Once you are ready to go over your work, it is time to start chinking. The first step in chinking is to apply backer rod. If you have a large crew and the weather is cooperating then it might make sense to apply backer rod to the entire building. If it is just you or a small crew then you will want to only apply backer rod to a small section. Some of you might be wondering what is backer rod and what does it do? Backer rod is a necessity when chinking. Backer rod is a synthetic foam which is placed in the cavity between logs. Backer rod makes sure that the chinking only adheres to the top and bottom of the log in order ensure movement. When the chinking adheres to only 2 surfaces (top and bottom) and not 3, it allows for much more movement and prevents checks. Checks are cracks that will appear in logs and chinking. There are four types of backer rod; round, triangle, trapezoid, and open cell formulation. Most log cabins will require a few different sizes.


First you will want to determine which backer rod to use. This is best done by placing various sizes of backer rod into your joints. The size that keeps fits snugly and allows for an even spread of about ¼ to an 1” of chinking is the right size. It is important to take your time when applying your backer rod. There are two different methods to adhering your backer rod. The first method is to use staples where needed. Using staples is less messy and allows you to bring certain parts in. It is important to be careful not to rely on the staples. If there is to much pressure and the staple comes out, it might affect your chinking. The second method is to us a spray adhesive such as 3M Super 77. Spray adhesive is a bit more tedious but also will give more flex. It is done by laying the flat surface down and carefully spraying the exposed surface. Once the adhesive settles a bit and is still stick, you can carefully insert the backer rod. DO NOT SPAY THE ADHESIVE DIRECTLY ONTO THE LOGS. This will ruin your day and prevent the chinking from adhering. When applying your backer rod, do not be afraid to cut it. Knots, shallow parts, and other objects will require you to scalped your backer rod to fit. If you have questions feel free to call us.


How to apply Log Jam chinking.

Now that your logs are prepared, your tools are ready, and your backer rod is in; it is time to apply your chinking. Read your measurement guide to make sure that you have the right nozzle size and thickness. Start by lubricating your tools with a silicone type spray. Then put nozzle end of the gun into the bucket of chinking and pull the activator rod. This will suck the chinking into your gun. When applying your chinking you will want to check with the manufacturer for the recommended thickness. On average you want your thickness to be between 3/16” and 1/4″ if it is to thick it will flake and if it is to thin it will break. Once you apply your chinking, you will want to use a foam brush or spatula to go over your chinking with smooth strokes in one direction. It is important to use plenty of water or a release agent. If you use a release agent, then be careful not to use too much as it will affect your chinking. Make sure that the chinking is adhering to the top and bottom really well. It is also very important to clean up spills and runs instantly. If it cures to the log, it can be extremely difficult to clean up.

Chinking is a synthetic sealant that is used to seal the joints of log homes. Chinking is textured like mortar and very flexible. Chinking can be used in place of caulk and is mostly used in the joints between logs. Chinking keeps moisture out by sealing the joints and protects log homes from moisture related damage.

Chinking is important in keeping moisture, insects, wind, and other forces of nature from entering logs. Chinking used to be made using a mixture of clay, lime, silt, sand, ash, and dirt. This mixture used to vary depending on what was available in the region. Old mixtures were not made of elastic and would pull away from the logs. Chinking today is made of an acrylic elastic compound with special components that allow it to adhere to the logs and flex with the log movement. This new synthetic chinking is often called Elastomeric chinking and does not chip like cement mortar. Today there are three different types of chinking synthetic (most popular), cement chinking, and traditional or homemade chinking. Chinking typically lasts 20 years if applied correctly with a backing rod.

Cracked Chinking: If a log joint is deeper than 1/4 in. and backer rod was not used, there is a very good chance that the chinking will crack. What happens is the logs will naturally expand and contract and since there is no bond breaker to allow the chinking to stretch in the middle, the caulking or chinking cracks in the center.

Depending on the condition of the caulk or chinking, the material could be completely torn out, backer rod installed and then caulk or chinking reapplied. An alternative to removing all of the material is to run a length of packaging tape down the middle of the joint, over the chinking material as shown on the right (the tape will act as a bond breaker). Then cover the old caulking and packaging tape with a new layer of caulk or chinking as shown.

Hugh inventory of all colors:

Mortar White, Light Gray, Buff, White White, Wood tone Cedar, Light Gray, Dark Brown.

Same day shipping on all orders. Michigan, Ohio, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Montana, North Dakota, Pennsylvania, Tennessee

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Additional information

Weight 42 lbs
Dimensions 1 × 1 × 1 in

5 gallon pail, 30 oz tube, 30 oz box of 10


White White, Mortar White, Buff, Tan, Light Gray, Gray, Woodtone Cedar, Dark Brown